KAUAI PHOTO JOURNAL / TRAVEL GUIDE

Shawna Sellmeyer October 11, 2022

Hike view on the Kalalau Trail in Hā'ena State Park

After traveling to Hawaii for the first time last year and staying on the island of Oahu for my honeymoon, I never imagined that I’d be so lucky to visit another of the Hawaiian islands so soon. But when I had learned that I was pregnant earlier this year, I was interested in the concept of having a “babymoon”, aka a trip where you and your partner enjoy a ‘last hurrah’ of sorts before the baby arrives. Some people think babymoons are a bit ridiculous and that its selfish of the soon-to-be parents to take these trips, but I honestly think it’s pretty romantic and allows you to make some beautiful memories with your partner before your lives are forever changed. After coming back from our babymoon to Kauai, I can confidently say that not only was it worth it, but it turned out to be one of the best trips that my husband and I had ever gone on. When you’re on a babymoon, I feel like you’re 10 times more appreciative of the quality time with your partner and being able to do all the activities, whether leisurely or active, without worrying about your little one at home. It was a stress-free trip, yet we still did our fair share of exploring the island fully.

Attempting to describe the beauty of Kauai is a very hard task because there’s just no words or photos that can do it justice; I had never seen such beauty in my life before. At one point I actually was in tears just over how perfect the moment was when I sitting on the sand at Tunnels Beach (pictures further below) looking at the beautiful blue water with jungle-y huge mountains in the background. The difference in vibes between Oahu and Kauai is night and day - Oahu was much more busier and packed with people, with countless activities and restaurants to visit, whereas Kauai is pretty quiet with a slowed-down way of things. There’s of course activities to do in Kauai, but almost all of the major ones can be squeezed in in a few days.

We made the trip as cost-effective as possible and we even got lucky with finding fairly cheap airline tickets via Hawaiian Airlines. We stayed at VRBO rentals in lieu of the pricey resorts that Hawaii is known for, which greatly cut costs. We ate at casual restaurants or even got takeout a few times, which were usually our favorite meals because we’d bring our food to the beach. And because I’m a hungry pregnant woman, I also packed a bunch of travel-friendly snacks, like trail mix and dried fruits from Trader Joe’s, and made a couple batches of my favorite granola bars. This definitely saved us money since grocery stores in Kauai are pretty expensive regardless of what you’re buying. One aspect that was a non-negotiable for us was getting a rental car because we planned on doing multiple activities that were in different parts of the island. Kauai is much smaller than Oahu but I definitely think renting a car is worth it if you don’t plan on staying in the same town your entire trip.

A horse that was always standing near one of the driving bridges in Hanalei

We divided our trip by spending two nights on the South Shore with a condo in Koloa, and then three nights on the North Shore in Princeville in another studio-like apartment. Furthermore, anything on the western part of the island occurred while we stayed in the south, and anything east-related was saved for when we stayed north. We did this not only to prevent spending too much time in the car, but also because you can’t drive fully around the island. So for example, if we had wanted to go to Waimea Canyon on the west side while staying on the North Shore, it would have required us to backtrack around the majority of the island. Although neither of our rentals had an ocean view, we were very happy with both areas and were never further than a mile away from the beach. Koloa was a great little town right outside the more popular Poipu, that had plenty of beautiful beaches, restaurants and shops. And when we wanted to go somewhere in Poipu, it was a quick 5 minute drive for us. Like Koloa, Princeville is located right next to the touristy Hanalei in the North Shore and we felt it was also a prime location. One more thing to add: Kauai is so beautiful and green because of the amount of rain it receives - about 400 inches a year. So with that in mind, just expect that you’re going to experience some wet weather while you’re there, but it usually doesn’t last long. We chose to visit Kauai at a great time of the year, not only weather-wise but also because it wasn’t crowded at all, so I definitely recommend trying to visit in September, after Labor Day.

Below, I have enlisted my favorite recommendations and highlights from the trip by dividing it into two categories: 1) South Shore and Western Kauai and 2) North Shore and Eastern Kauai.

FAVORITE SOUTH SHORE + WESTERN ISLAND SPOTS/ACTIVITIES

Anakēs Juice Bar - Located inside a market (Kukui’ula Market), Anakēs had the best açaí bowl that we tried in Kauai. Alex and I split a large ‘Funky Monkey’ with peanut butter, granola, honey and fresh fruit, and not only was it amazing, but very filling. They have multiple açaí bowls to choose from in addition to smoothies and fresh squeezed juices, and homemade oatmeal and overnight oats sold in to-go mason jars that looked delicious. It’s also right next door to the Mexican food spot Da Crack, which is just a little hole in the wall. We didn’t have a chance to eat there but based on the long lines every time we drove by it, I’m assuming it’s pretty good.

‘Funky Monkey’ açaí bowl from Anakēs Juice Bar

Shipwreck Beach - A beautiful beach that is more for sitting on the sand and watching the surfers, than it is for swimming. The waves are pretty rough here but it’s definitely a nice beach to walk along and put your feet in the water. Parking wasn’t an issue for us and there’s also bathrooms, showers and picnic tables. This beach also marks the beginning of the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail, a 3.7 mile out-and-back hike that runs along the coast to Punahoa Point.

Tree Tunnel - You don’t have to go out of your way in order to drive through this mile-long tunnel of 500 huge eucalyptus trees - the drive from the airport in Lihue to Koloa/Poipu will take you right through it. It’s super easy to access and can easily be found via Google Maps.

Koloa Fish Market - Alex had poke, the popular Hawaiian dish featuring raw fish, a couple of times on this trip but the poke plate that he ordered from Koloa Fish Market was by far his favorite (he also said it was one of the most delicious things he had ever eaten). His “small” order of spicy ahi tuna poke came with two sides, a cucumber salad and seaweed salad, as well as rice. I only tried a bite of the cucumber salad since I don’t eat seafood and it was incredible. If you’re not a seafood fan like I am, they also had other non-seafood items like fried chicken and kalua pork.

Poipu Beach - Probably the most popular beach on the South Shore. We came here to watch not only the sunrise, but the sunset as well, which provided amazing views of both. Swimming here was perfect with little-to-no waves, and we also got to see huge sea turtles on the sand when we went at sunrise. Apparently, sea lions are known to hang out there as well. Parking was easy for us as there’s a big lot, and again, there’s bathrooms, showers and plenty of picnic tables.

Kalaheo Cafe and Coffee Co. - We stopped here for breakfast on our way up to Waimea Canyon and loved it. As always, I ordered a couple of pastries - a macadamia nut sticky bun and a strawberry banana scone - while Alex ordered an egg breakfast sandwich. Everything, including their cold brew coffee, was great, and the people who worked there were very friendly. Although we took our stuff to go, it looked like a popular spot to have a nice sit-down meal. Open for lunch and dinner as well.

Macadamia Nut Sticky Bun from Kalaheo and Coffee Co.

Waimea Canyon State Park - This is one of Kauai’s biggest attractions and for good reason. Waimea Canyon is dubbed “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific” and it’s plain to see why when you’re there. Exploring the state park can take as long as you want it to: there are multiple lookouts to drive to as well as various hiking trails with incredible views to explore. Since we were on a time crunch due to our scheduled boat ride, we chose to stick to the most popular lookouts including the main Waimea Canyon Lookout and the Kalalau Lookout. Admission to enter the state park is $10 per car as well as $5 per person, with no reservations needed beforehand.

Kalalau Lookout - Out of all of the lookouts while driving through Waimea Canyon, this is one that should not be missed. It gives you an amazing view of the Nā Pali Coast. Definitely try to get to the lookout in the morning, because you’ll be more likely guaranteed a clear view before the inevitable fog/clouds roll in.

Kalepa Ridge Trail - I read about this hike on some random travel blog and I’m so happy that I had stumbled upon it. The 1.9 mile out-and-back trail starts at the Kalalau Lookout and leads you to an even more epic view of the Nā Pali Coast. This hike was pretty difficult with some very steep and slippery parts and may not be best for those who have a fear of heights, but wow, it was totally worth it. Again, it would be best to do the hike in the morning when there’s a greater chance of having a clear view of the coast. Definitely recommended!

View of the Nā Pali Coast from the Kalepa Ridge Trail

Capt. Andy’s Kauai Boat Tours - A must-see on Kauai is the beautiful Nā Pali Coast, which is best seen close-up either by boat or helicopter. Alex and I chose the former option and booked a trip via Capt. Andy’s, the most popular company on the island for catamaran boat tours and snorkeling adventures. It fortunately was also the only company that would allow me to ride at my stage of pregnancy: I was 25 weeks at the time and their cutoff for catamaran rides is 26 (pregnant women aren’t allowed on the rafting adventures). From their tour options, we settled on the 4-hour “Sunset Dinner Sail” on their 55-foot catamaran. Although we didn’t have the best weather, which we expected since rain is inevitable in Kauai, we had a great time and loved the views of the coast. Next time we go, we’ll definitely be booking through them again but for a snorkeling excursion to switch things up.

Sunset during our Sunset Dinner Sail via Capt. Andy’s Boat Tour

FAVORITE NORTH SHORE + EASTERN ISLAND SPOTS/ACTIVITIES

Tunnels Beach / Haena Beach - I’m pretty confident in saying that this was the most beautiful stretch of beaches I have ever stepped foot on. The views of huge green mountains paired with beautiful white sand and clear blue water were just so incredible and I could not stop talking about its beauty the whole time we were there. Parking is hard to come by, especially for Tunnels, where there’s only about 10 spots available, but there’s a bigger lot with bathrooms, showers and tables a mile away at the Haena Beach entrance. These beaches are ideal for snorkeling due to the coral reef and plenty of marine life, but we were very content with laying in the sand and swimming in the water for hours. Get there as early as possible to ensure parking.

Wainiha Country Market - We stopped in this adorable little market after Tunnels Beach just to check it out and were pleasantly surprised with how many local goods they had to offer. Although I was eyeing the homemade sweet breads, we settled on locally made popsicles, which we loved. Definitely a good place if you want to pick up some homemade/local souvenirs that aren’t kitschy.

Locally made popsicles bought at Wainiha Country Market

Sunset at Hanalei Bay on the North Shore

Kayaking Wailua River / Hike to Wailua Falls - This activity was a last minute addition to our trip and I’m so happy that we were able to squeeze it in. You can either kayak Wailua River and hike to the beautiful Wailua Falls with a tour group, or you can rent your own kayak through various rental agencies around the area. Alex and I chose the latter since we didn’t want to be at the mercy of a group that would probably move too slowly, since the tours usually take about 5 hours (we ended up completing everything in under 3). We chose to rent our kayaks from Wailua Kayak Adventures and had a very positive experience with them. Just be aware that if you plan on renting your own kayak, you will need to haul it to the river from the rental shop and back yourself, so a car is therefore needed. If you plan on hiking to Wailua Falls or Fern Grotto while on your kayaking adventure, I definitely recommend bringing hiking sandals and plenty of snacks/water to recharge.

Passion Bakery Cafe - This cafe located in Kapa’a was the perfect spot for us to fuel ourselves before our kayaking adventure. People are obsessed with their malasadas, which are essentially Portuguese donuts that can be found in bakeries throughout Hawaii, so there’s usually crazy long lines on the days they sell them (Tues/Thurs/Sat). Since we showed up on a non-malasada day, it wasn’t busy and we opted to try their other amazing pastries, like the macadamia nut sticky bun and guava puff.

Hanalei Bread Co. - A very popular spot for breakfast and lunch that I was worried would be overrated, but we ended up eating there for breakfast all three mornings because it was that good. From their delicious coffee to the daily selection of pastries and other breakfast items, everything we tried was truly incredible. Their scones, like the pineapple coconut and mixed berry, were some of the best I had ever tried, and their savory items like the avocado toast and breakfast burrito were perfect as well. The prices may seem high, but the quality and portions definitely make up for it. People start to line up before the cafe even opens, so get there early or expect a long wait.

Apple danish and pineapple coconut scone from Hanalei Bread Co.

Hideaway Beach - Although this beach was kind of a struggle for us to get to, it was worth it just based on the views alone. Parking is hard to come by in the area since it’s mostly homes/condos nearby, so you may have to walk pretty far, and then it’s a steep hike down a cliff to get to the water. There are ropes to help you on the pathway down/up, but definitely take your time and wear appropriate shoes. The beach is gorgeous, albeit small, but definitely a little oasis that feels like a private beach.

Tahiti Nui - A favorite restaurant among both locals and tourists, Tahiti Nui was our favorite restaurant for dinner and drinks (mocktails for me), and we ended up eating there a few times. It’s a lively atmosphere at night with live music, tons of people enjoying themselves and an overall super fun, yet laidback vibe. The food was great with plenty of options to choose from, like homemade pizzas, local fish, burgers and salads and they also do brunch on the weekends.

Kilauea Lighthouse - After living in Maine for a bit, we’ve come to appreciate lighthouses, so we definitely wanted to check this one out. Although we couldn’t enter the main entrance because we didn’t have a reservation, we still got an epic view (picture below) with the added bonus of saving money on admission, which I think was 10 dollars per person. This view is to the right of the main entrance gate and there’s actually a few parking spots so you can get out to see it.

Federico’s Fresh Mexican Cuisine - A very laidback Mexican food spot serving the classics like meat and fish tacos/burritos, quesadillas, tostadas, etc. We picked up takeout from here and brought it to watch the sunset at Tunnels Beach (highly recommend doing this).

Hā`ena State Park / Kalalau Trail - We were told by friends that hiking the Kalalau Trail within Hā`ena State Park was absolutely a must while on the island and we’re so thankful for the recommendation, because it was truly an incredible experience. This gorgeous (seriously an understatement) hiking trail runs along the Nā Pali Coast and has a few options when it comes to the length of the hike. The most popular, and shortest, option is hiking the first few miles to Hanakapi’ai Beach, which is what we chose to do mostly due to me being pregnant. Although a shorter hike, you still get insane views of the coast while walking through the coolest jungle-y trail. You’ll even see some fresh fruit growing like pink guava and mangoes. The other two hiking options include 1) a hike to Hanakapi’ai Falls, which is about 8 miles round trip, and 2) the full 22 mile roundtrip trip hike to Kalalau Beach. The latter takes at least a few days to complete and is best suited for advanced hikers. Regardless of what hike you plan on doing, you’ll need to make a reservation in advance in order to enter the state park (here’s the website). Also, don’t pass on taking a dip at the beautiful Ke’e Beach, which is located right next to the trailhead.

Hanakapi’ai Beach aka our destination on the Kalalau Trail

Anini Beach - This was the first beach we visited on the North Shore, and although it wasn’t our favorite, it was still beautiful and was the perfect swimming spot. It’s a pretty long strand of beach, so if you want to have some privacy, all you need to do is walk further away from the main entrance.

Fresh Bite Kauai - A food truck in Hanalei that we stopped at for lunch after our hiking in Hā`ena State Park. Even though we were starved and I’m sure anything would have tasted good to us at that point, the food here was honestly amazing. They specialize in salads, wraps/sandwiches and quinoa bowls that cater to not only vegetarians/vegans but meat-eaters as well. Excellent french fries as well!

Wishing Well Shave Ice - Our go-to spot for açaí bowls on the North Shore. Although not as good as the one we had at Anakēs, it still fulfilled our craving for the refreshing treat and we even visited the food truck a few times. Like the name suggests, they also serve shave ice as well as coffee and smoothies.

MAINE PHOTO JOURNAL

Shawna Sellmeyer November 18, 2020

This week, it’ll be six months since Alex and I packed our things and drove 3100 miles from Orange County, CA to our new apartment in Portland, ME. During these past six months, it’s been a rollercoaster of emotions for me with many highs and a good amount of lows. Due to the pandemic, it’s been hard to feel connected to our new environment, but honestly, I think Alex and I have been doing the best that we can, and looking at my pictures from our time here is a testament to that. We’ve explored so many beautiful areas of the state, eaten the most delicious food, gotten closer to the few friends that we had here already and genuinely have had a lot of fun. I don’t know how I would have done any of it by myself and I’m so lucky to have Alex as my partner in life.

So as a way for me to look back on our first six months in Maine, I wanted to share photos from our time here so far. Some of them are very random, but each and every one of them have a certain significance to me, whether it’s a picture of a cocktail on a Friday night to the most gorgeous hike in Western Maine. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

Strawberry picking at Maxwell’s Farm in Cape Elizabeth

Alex and a very foggy Fort Williams Park

Bruschetta using Night Moves’ country loaf

Drinks and charcuterie at Vessel & Vine in Brunswick

Fresh Maine wild blueberries from the Portland Farmers Market

Favorite pizza combo from Bonobo (Baby Arugula and Farm)

Five Acre Farm Stand in Kennebunkport (if you ever find yourself here, get the cookies or pie)

Some of my favorite apartments on Danforth Street

Peonies from Alex via Harmon’s Floral Company

One of many cookie batches baked in the apartment

Sunset at the very dog-friendly Willard Beach

Poolside at Strawberry Hill Seaside Inn in Rockport (it was very cold, hence the goosebumps!)

Dried flowers from the Portland Farmers Market

Drinks at Hunt & Alpine Club (yes, that’s a Jell-O shot)

TRAVEL GUIDE: SAYULITA (+ SAN SEBASTIÁN)

Shawna Sellmeyer January 12, 2020

View of Sayulita from our Airbnb living room

At the beginning of last year, Alex and I decided that it was about time we took a vacation where we planted ourselves on a beach and relaxed the whole time. We generally favor “city vacations”, where we take in historical sights, eat at amazing restaurants, and enjoy other activities that are all within walking distance of one another. But after booking our third trip to Portland, Maine within two years, we knew we needed to switch things up and partake in a beach vacation.

Living in California, the most obvious destination choices are between Hawaii and Mexico, and even though I’d never been to Hawaii before (am I the last Californian who hasn’t?), I definitely knew I wanted to go to Mexico. Mexico is a country that I’m deeply in love with due to its people, culture and beauty, and because I majored in Anthropology, where I took classes like Mesoamerican Archaeology and various Latin American socio-cultural-focused courses, I am pretty knowledgeable of the country. After a bit of research and ruling out places that were resort-heavy or too trendy, like Tulum, we settled on the picturesque sleepy beach town of Sayulita. Now that our trip has come and gone, I can strongly say that we made the perfect decision.

The famous flags on a little street leading to the beach in Sayulita

Sayulita is located in the western Mexican state of Nayarit and about an hour north of Puerto Vallarta. Although the town is located on the beach, it is nestled between beautiful, overgrown mountains and thick jungle, which makes for stunning and diverse views. Because of this, there are many activities for one to do whether you find yourself in the ocean snorkeling or zip-lining through the jungle canopy.

The streets of Sayulita are small and cobblestoned and beaming with vibrant color from the buildings and restaurants as well from the flags strung across the streets. Sayulita is well-known for its surf and attracts many surfers from around the world; this is mostly why the vibe in town is very laidback. Although a small town, there’s a plethora of restaurants, bars and shops to choose from and all are within walking distance of one another. It’s a completely safe town filled with people who are just generally happy to be there and mostly everyone speaks English. Sayulita hasn’t exactly been tainted by tourism just yet, so the prices for food and drinks are incredibly low, but don’t forget to tip your servers.

Side note: We also traveled to San Sebastián, Jalisco for one night and if you’re looking for info on that, keep scrolling!

One of the many dogs of Sayulita - this is “Golf Cart Rental pup”

Some basic tips for your trip:

Sayulita is a tropical climate which means the best time to visit is during winter, or November-April. This is the busier season but the weather is much more agreeable and not humid and rainy. We went at the beginning of December and it was 80°F every day with the water temperature at about 70°F.
I strongly recommend using pesos when you’re in Sayulita. The best way to get them is from the ATM when you land at the airport in Puerto Vallarta. We obviously ran out of pesos during our trip - many times - and had to use the ATMs in Sayulita, which you can find in numerous spots around town. And if worse comes to worst, you can always use your credit card but of course there’ll be a fee.
Get ready to pet approximately 100 adorable dogs while you’re in Sayulita. Sayulita is a very dog-friendly town and you’ll come across them whether you’re at the beach or sitting at a bar. Don’t be sad though - they all have owners and just are free to roam around as they please. Most of my pictures from the trip were of the dogs actually.
Bring bug spray! We dropped the ball on this because I figured that since Sayulita is on the Pacific coast that bugs wouldn’t be an issue, but I was wrong. So wrong. It’s been a month since we returned from our trip and I still have marks on my legs.

MEGA, the huge grocery store on the way to Sayulita, in all its glory

How to get there: The best way to get to Sayulita is by flying into Puerto Vallarta (an international airport), and then taking a simple 60-min route north on a main highway. The best ways to get there are by either renting a car (this is what we did because of our plans for San Sebastián) or reserving a private driver. The airport in Puerto Vallarta has the basic car rental companies like Enterprise and Hertz, so renting a car isn’t that much of a hassle. I would just recommend doing some reading on what kind of insurance you want to have for your duration of the trip (we got the mandatory basic insurance which was just fine). Whether you’re driving or being driven to Sayulita, you MUST stop at Mega, a HUGE Costco-like store filled with everything from groceries including fresh, local fruit to medicine to kitchen appliances. Since we stayed at an Airbnb for the week, we stocked up on water, alcohol, snacks, breakfast pastries, and fruit. They also have a bunch of ATMs to choose from. The first half of the drive to Sayulita is essentially getting you out of the populated and bustling Puerto Vallarta area while the second half is driving through jungle-y mountains with tiny villages selling fruits and other goods on the side of the highway. The views are absolutely beautiful and if anything, it gets you excited for seeing what Sayulita looks like.

Where to stay: The beauty of Sayulita is that it’s not filled with all-inclusive resorts but actually beautiful and reasonably-priced boutique hotels and Airbnbs. We chose to stay in an Airbnb because the prices were great, there were many options, and almost every single one of them was either gorgeous and/or had an insane view of the ocean. The top picture in this post is the view from our living room and it was the best part of our rental. If you opt to stay in an Airbnb, I actually suggest finding one higher up in the hills so you’ll not only get the same view, but also get away from the noise of the nightlife. Side note: Sayulita is very hilly, so if you’re not up to walking everywhere, golf carts are available to rent in town.

Things to Do

Beaches - The most obvious activity in Sayulita is hanging out at the beach whether you’re laying on the sand, swimming in the water, surfing or paddleboarding. The waves in Sayulita are kind of intense if you’re not a skilled swimmer (this is why surfers love visiting) but you can easily wade in the water to cool off. There are a couple of beaches to choose from:

Playa Las Cuevas and the Playa Las Malpasos (the larger beach)

Playa Sayulita, the main and largest beach in town, is steps away from the city center and where most people go to enjoy the water including the surfers. It’s bustling with bars and restaurants, vendors walking up and down the shore selling various goods, and beach clubs where you can rent a chair for the day with full service. If you want to find a less crowded spot to plant yourself, just simply walk further north on the strand away from the crowd.
A popular swimming beach south of the main beach is called Playa Los Muertos (translated to “the dead”) and this is due to the cemetery that you pass on the walk there. It’s located in a small cove and feels much more private. There’s also food and drinks for purchase.
Playa Las Cuevas and Malpaso - The only way (that I know of) to get to these beaches is by walking north on the main beach until you hit the rocks, climbing over those, and then hiking through a jungle for about 15 minutes. There’s a clear path to follow so don’t worry about getting lost, and you don’t necessarily need to wear hiking gear: Alex and I were wearing sandals and it was fine. You’ll hit Las Cuevas first which is a much smaller beach cove, but if you keep going on the pathway, you’ll eventually find wooden stairs that lead you down to paradise aka Malpaso. When we went, there were only three other people on the entire strand so it felt like we had discovered our own private, stunning beach. Bring snacks and water if you want to stay for a while.

View from one of the beaches on Marietas Islands - that’s really the color of the water

Snorkeling/Scuba diving - We booked a snorkeling trip through Sayulita Entourage and it turned out to be one of our favorite experiences on the trip. The boat leaves from Punta Mita harbor (a van will drive you there from the dive shop located in Sayulita) and takes you out to snorkel/dive at Marietas Islands. Our snorkeling guide was Manny and he honestly was the reason we had such a great time. At one point he took us to shore at one of the beaches on the islands and we just sat there and talked about life and Mexico. The best part was that we had the whole island to ourselves. Sayulita Entourage also offers whale watching, which is available from December to March. Be warned: the boat that they take you out on is very small which makes for a bumpier ride. So if you’re prone to sea-sickness, definitely take Dramamine before.

Zip-lining - Like mentioned above, Sayulita is surrounded by beautiful jungle-y mountains which makes for a perfect zip-lining canopy course. Alex and I had plans to go on our last full day, but changed our minds the night before mostly because we wanted to save the money (you need to make reservations ahead of time, but don’t need to pay until the morning of). I don’t really regret not doing it, but if you’re into that, the reviews were great.

Other outdoor activities - Horseback riding, ATV tours, hiking tours - we didn’t do any of these, but I just wanted to let you know that these options were available.

A random Sayulita pup strolling back home from the beach

Shopping - In addition to typical souvenir shops shilling out Mexican products, Sayulita has a ton of beautifully curated shops that sell local goods ranging from ceramics to handmade clothing. My favorite shop was Evoke the Spirit where they sold beautiful ceramics, “yarn-painted” skulls, and jewelry made with Huichol beads. It’s pricey, but you’re paying for handmade quality goods. Nakawé had beautiful handmade textiles (blankets, hand towels, clutch purses, etc.) as well as jewelry and clothing. Another shop that we liked but didn’t buy anything from was Manyana, which reminded me of LA’s General Store. There was also the Sayulita Hippie Market, which was basically a swap meet with tons of stalls filled with local goods. It’s open every day. Lastly, there’s a farmers market that takes place near the river, but sadly we missed this because we were on our way to San Sebastián that day.

Day Trips - If you’re like me and try to take advantage of exploring the area you’re visiting as much as possible, definitely consider renting a car and checking out nearby towns. To the north, there’s San Pancho and Chacala - two other beach towns that are beautiful as well. To the south, there’s the more resort-heavy towns of Punta Mita and Puerto Vallarta, the latter being a huge tourist destination. If you head inland, you can experience Mexican culture away from the touristy beach towns, like San Sebastián (more on that below) or Guadalajara.

Courtyard at Miscelánea, our favorite coffee shop

Restaurants

The best seats at most of the restaurants in Sayulita are the ones outside on the street. Sitting there makes the dining experience so much more fun since you’re in the middle of the action, so if you need to, definitely wait until there’s a table outside to sit at. Also, I know many people get sick when they eat in Mexico, but Alex (who has a very sensitive stomach) and I had no problems whatsoever with that, and we ate just about everything (fresh produce, meat, fish, etc.).

Breakfast/Coffee

ChocoBanana - A popular breakfast/lunch spot that’s been around since 1991. They have a huge array of dishes to choose from but we loved their iced coffee which had the ice cubes made out of espresso. Definitely buy a bag of their coffee beans/grinds to take home… we’ve been enjoying it since we’ve been back.
Miscelánea - This was our favorite coffee shop that we went to 3 or 4 times during our trip. It has an adorable and peaceful courtyard to sit in and really good coffee drinks and food. Their almond milk latte (they also had coconut milk) was my go-to order along with an amazing almond croissant. Alex ordered their chilaquiles one day and it was not only beautifully presented, but delicious. They also have ceramics and other goods to buy that are made by local artists.
Organi-K - This organic and healthy cafe was a saving grace to Alex and I when we needed a break from tacos, burritos, etc. Their smoothies were some of the best I had ever tasted (my favorite was Bagus) and I seriously miss drinking them. They also sell açaí and poke bowls, as well as juice shots and coffee.
Yah-Yah Café - Alex and I passed this breakfast/lunch spot every time we walked into town, but we didn’t actually try it until our last day (since Miscelánea was our favorite spot) which turned out to be a mistake! They had an amazing food menu to choose from and delicious coffee with great service.

The fixings that comes with your meal at El Itacate

Lunch/Dinner

El Itacate - This restaurant was on my must-visit list prior to the trip and my expectations were definitely met. The food was incredible: I ordered the “quesadillas jamaica” which was a quesadilla stuffed with hibiscus flowers (a Mexican specialty) while Alex ordered a shrimp taco and a mahi mahi taco. The best part of the meal was the assortment of “fixings” that was brought out to the table after we ordered, which included various salsas, two types of onions (caramelized and raw) and fresh lime. Other restaurants in Sayulita served the salsa tray as well, like Yeikame and Mary’s, but El Itacate’s was the best. Their margaritas were great as well!

Yeikame - Literally right next to El Itacate, Yeikame was another solid dinner choice. We ate here on our last night and I think it was my favorite meal just because our server was so fun and the meal was amazing. They’re known for their blue corn tortillas which was what my potato quesadilla was made with - it was so good that I recreated it the moment I got home with a little guidance from this recipe.

Mary’s - This restaurant was recommended to me by a couple of friends and it was also fantastic. They’re known for fish tacos, which Alex ordered and loved while I got the best veggie burrito I’ve ever had - it was filled with bell peppers, spinach, mushrooms, etc. and I completely devoured it. It’s also a popular spot for breakfast.

Tacos el Ivan - A street vendor that sells AMAZING tacos, the most popular being al pastor. Alex and I ordered three of them to go, inhaled them, and went back to order three more. I believe each taco was about 13 pesos each (less than a dollar), so order a lot especially since they’re small. They stay open late each night (past midnight) so it’s definitely a good place to go after a night out.

Other Street Taco Vendors - On the same day we ate at Tacos el Ivan, we decided to try the various other street taco spots around town. One was called Tacos Gaby, a spot that served fish and shrimp tacos which were made in a “kitchen” the size of a closet (see above picture). I don’t eat fish, but Alex got a shrimp taco and really enjoyed it. There was another street vendor that didn’t even have a name but was located south of the bridge in town. There wasn’t even a menu to look at and all that they were serving that day was fried beef tacos… and oh my goodness, they were probably my favorite tacos from the trip. I believe it was only open for breakfast and lunch.

The insanely delicious beef tacos from an unnamed street vendor in Sayulita

Mamma Mia - I didn’t expect to visit Sayulita and have some of the best Italian food but I did! Our Airbnb host suggested this restaurant, stating it was a local favorite and we’re so happy we listened to him. The pastas are homemade, the wine list is extensive and the food overall was incredible. We split the bruschetta, caesar salad and the bolognese with fettuccine. The best part is that they actually split up each dish onto separate plates for us and the portions were still perfect.

Bars

Le Zouave de Hafa - This was hands down our favorite bar in Sayulita. It’s connected to the hotel Petit Hotel Hafa and is just a really cool and beautifully designed bar with the best margaritas I’ve ever had, especially since the juice was hand squeezed to order. My go-to margarita was the grapefruit habanero while Alex’s was the cucumber serrano. We became friends with the bar manager after he noticed that we kept coming back each night and helped us pick out an amazing bottle of mezcal to buy for my brother-in-law. They also offer mezcal tastings for a decent price, but we ended up doing one at CAVA.

Happy hour palomas and the best seats at CAVA

CAVA - A few doors down from Le Zouave de Hafa, CAVA was another favorite spot of ours to get drinks. They have a really great happy hour deal - 2 for 1 palomas or margaritas, so the total for two of the most delicious palomas ever was 95 pesos or 5 bucks. Once again, the drinks were made to order with freshly squeezed fruit juice, even during happy hour (places in OC and LA don’t even do this). The bartenders were super nice and knowledgeable when we did a mezcal tasting here on our last night.

Atico - We loved this bar for its spicy margaritas, the friendly service and the swing chairs that were against the outdoor bar (see picture above). Also a hookah lounge. Bonus points if you see the bartender’s dog, Daisy, a big old white dog with blue eyes who strolls around town saying hi to everyone.

A Mini Guide to San Sebastián

Beautiful cobblestone-lined streets and recognizable red and white buildings in San Sebastián

A couple of months before our trip to Sayulita, I looked up the most popular day trips to take in the area and fortunately came across San Sebastián, an old mining town founded in 1605. Located in the Sierra Madre mountains of Jalisco, the neighboring state to Nayarit, San Sebastián is essentially a town frozen in time, and is one of Mexico’s “Pueblas Mágicos” - a town promoted by the Mexican government for its historical significance and untouched beauty. The architecture is gorgeous with its centuries-old haciendas and red and white colored buildings, and the streets are very narrow and made of cobblestone. It seriously feels like you’re traveling to the past since nothing seems new.

The drive from Sayulita to San Sebastián takes about two hours: you’ll need to drive back down to Puerto Vallarta and then drive east about 45 miles on a major highway. A big chunk of the drive will take you through winding roads in the mountains and the views are breathtaking; no pictures could do it justice.

Progresso Bridge on the way to San Sebastián

You’ll know you’re close to San Sebastián once you reach Progresso Bridge, but before you drive across, you NEED to make a stop on the right at Carmen’s Panadería. Carmen herself will be there to serve you delicious cinnamon-spiced coffee and fresh pastries like sweet or savory filled empanadas, conchas, cakes and other various baked goods. I chose the empanada with vanilla crème while Alex got the empanada with chorizo, which we enjoyed with coffee while sitting in the courtyard. They were SO good that we bought three more empanadas (the ham and jalapeño was insanely good) to take on the road with us. Don’t skip on this hidden gem.

Daily selection of empanadas at Carmen’s Panadería

The main building at Hotel Las Galeritas (note the hotel’s cat in the bottom right)

Where to stay - We noticed that most tourists who were in San Sebastián only came for the day and were shuttled off (probably back to Puerto Vallarta) before nightfall. But I strongly recommend spending the night at Hotel Las Galeritas de San Sebastián - an ecolodge bed and breakfast located on the edge of town. This peaceful hotel has only 3 private cabins available (so book in advance) and each one is gorgeous and rustic, with a beautiful fireplace in the center of the room and a private patio. I’m serious when I say that staying here was the highlight of the entire trip and will probably go down as one of the most special places I’ve ever stayed at. In the morning, they serve an authentic Mexican hot breakfast which changes daily, along with coffee, juice, yogurt and other continental breakfast options. It was amazing. I cannot recommend this place enough.

Where to eat - Although it’s such a small town, San Sebastián has a good amount of restaurants to choose from, but pay attention to the hours since most close early, like 7pm. For lunch, we ate at Fonda Eva María, which felt like we were sitting in the dining room of someone’s house, which was so cool. We had a couple of Mexican beers and ordered the cheese enchiladas and quesadilla - both were amazing.

For dinner, we ate at a newer and fancier restaurant called Jardín Nebulosa, mostly because I read it was not to be missed while in town. The seasonal menu focuses on authentic Mexican dishes but executed in a modern way. We had the tortilla soup, fresh blue corn tortillas served with different salsas, an appetizer of different insects (Alex ate this, not me) and a pork stuffed pepper with a mole sauce, all of which were fantastic. They also brew their own beer and have cocktails made with raicilla, a type of spirit made from an agave plant that grows wild in the area. The decor and service was impeccable as well, so overall, it was an unforgettable dining experience

What to do - Probably the most popular activity to do while in San Sebastián is to either hike, hire a driver or rent an ATV to get to La Bufa, the top of a nearby mountain. The views are supposed to be gorgeous and on a clear day, you can see as far as the ocean. Unfortunately, we ran out of time and weren’t able to do it, which is the only regret I have. Next time!

Another activity to do is to hike or rent an ATV to go see the mines in town. We did this before heading back to Sayulita and it was such a cool experience walking through beautiful, lush mountains in the middle of Mexico, since it looked like we were back home in California. We were able to find one mine, but unfortunately it was flooded from an earlier rain. The path we were on was beautiful nonetheless and it was nice to get some exercise in.

**I hope my travel guides will help you in planning your future trips to either Sayulita, San Sebastián, or both! If you couldn’t tell, our trip was phenomenal and I’ll cherish it forever.

Some more pictures from Sayulita and San Sebastián…

Red and white theme found in Sayulita as well

One of the many vendors in Sayulita selling street tacos at night

A random taqueria in Sayulita lit up at night

A nerdy tourist posing in front of Le Zouave de Hafa holding a grapefruit habanero margarita.

Another shot of San Sebastián’s beautiful streets

Our favorite dog in San Sebastián, whom we named ‘Isabella’

Lunch view at Fonda Eva María in San Sebastián

A christmas tree set up outside someone’s house in San Sebastián

Our guest while eating breakfast at Yah-Yah